W.W.&F. Discussion Forum
WW&F Railway Museum Discussion => Work and Events => Topic started by: Steve Smith on June 04, 2010, 08:57:40 PM
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What a nice surprise to walk into the machine shop this week and see things so orderly, and to find the tools I needed where they were supposed to be. I'm told this was the work of Ed Gilhooley. Great job, Ed!!!
P.S. When I was finished I put the tools back where they belong.
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I went to the East Broad Top Railroad's 50th Anniversary opening yesterday. Great day. One of the most popular events was a tour of the main shop building. The EBT's shop is an early 1900's gem of machine technology with it's line and shaft system and original drive belts. Our shop is smaller and newer but I have found that visitors enjoy touring the shop and hearing what the various machines do. Having a clean shop is good for the volunteers and visitors. Thanks Ed!
In the past we have had informal shop tours during our larger events. Our shop tours could more organized. A notice could be posted in the gift shop (or outside) that shop tours would be given at a certain time. A volunteer guide would collect visitors and lead them through the shop. A few small signs could be placed on the machines to identify their use. Organized tours would enhance the visitor experience, we just have to have a volunteer or two spend a little time conducting them. I'd be glad to help with tours when I'm not holding a hammer or paint brush.
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That's a good idea! I second! ;)
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P.S. When I was finished I put the tools back where they belong.
This has been a problem in the past. I am guilty of it as well as most others.
My pet peeve is extension cords and drop lights. I am constantly unplugging things that are not in use. I hate seeing cords run across the floor and rails for no reason. With a little oil and some dust, a spark could easily spell disaster for the museum. This is one thing I would like to see us get in the habit of. Unplug extension cords and hand held electric tools when not in use. The more hazards we eliminate, the less the chance something will happen we don't want.
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Ed will be back next week to check up on you guys... ;)
Bruce Mowbray
Springville, PA
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Hmmm. Well, what if each person who used a tool or machine in the shop picked up and cleaned up and put away after himself? How much time has been wasted by folks searching for a tool that someone else left where they last used it rather than returning it to its place? Why should Ed be the grownup here?
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Ed has been helpful- however we have been making a more concerted effort to keep after ourselves lately. I did a major reorganization of stored items this spring- utilizing space created upstairs on a series of new shelves on the West wall. With that- a lot of unused, stored stuff got cleared from Bay 4, allowing for space for more frequently used items. This culminated with an effort on Work weekend that cleared all three working benches- as the tools stored there could be relocated to more permenant homes. The key to keeping this dream a reality is what Wayne says- everyone must keep up after themselves. When we see that someone has left something out- put it away- rather than go away in disgust and letting it build. Ed has been a big part of this but it has taken a lot of people's effort and will continue needing to be.
Jason
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Ed means business...just look at what happened to Gordon after Ed caught him leaving a few drill bits laying around the shop ;)
So if you use it, put it away...or else!!
(http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-8/342468/EdandGordonsm.jpg)
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I think Steve's photo should be posted in the shop with a severe warning to transgressors.
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Priceless photo, Stephen, Ed and Gawdon!
With Ed's long years in police work, just think of the holds he can put on us if we don't put stuff away!
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Get me on the jury and I'll vote to acquit! Modern machine shops drop their power conduit pipe from the ceiling. Is there any way drop cords could be routed to the rafters rather than slithering along the floors? I'm sure that isn't prototypical but then neither were electric powered machine shops at the fin de ciecle.
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That's a good question for Josh, a few strategically placed power drops...
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To answer Josh's Question about power delivery system in the origenal WW&F shop it was all powered by overheadbelt to lineshaft run by a steam engine so yes it was different. Now my question is what kind of power system does the new shop have? At one point when some of the first machines arrived there was no power to run them so someone got an engine/generator set I think? then there was talk of getting 480 run in by Maine Power but they did'nt have it available close. So is the shop still running on home-made power or is commersal power now available.
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We get 200 amp 220 volt power from Central Maine Power. We have a 3-phase generator which is occasionally fired up to operate machinery requiring 3-phase power. I inquired about having CMP deliver 3-phase power, thinking that there was 3-phase at the intersection of Cross road and 218 just up the street. It would cost us at least $50,000. Turns out I was wrong about the 3-phase, it's only 2-phase at the intersection. Although there's a substation less than a half mile from us it would be probably $100,000 to have the 3-phase delivered to us. We have better uses for that kind of money.
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Some years ago, we acquired several great old machines at a bargain price from a machine shop in Massachusetts. Some of these machines required 525 Volt 3-phase. In addition to exploring the CMP alternatives that James outlined, we studied various static and rotary methods of creating 3-phase from single phase. We eventually re-motored the machines that we use most often and also obtained the gift of a 480-volt, 3-phase diesel generator. I think it was Josh Recave who found a suitable transformer that would kick this up to the required 525. For those rare occasions that we need to use one of the 525 machines, we fire up the generator and we're on our way.
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Some work has been ongoing in order to try and get the machine shop/bay 4 area cleaner and neater. I thought of a way to make it safer.
Before, after taking out what ever was in the machine shop, we had to flop down 3 sheets of plywood to cover the pit so one of us or our guests does not take a tumble. Not any more.
(http://i1132.photobucket.com/albums/m573/miketrainnut/WWandF%20Ry/100_4031.jpg)
Today I completed the floor I started on a month and a half ago. Someone had welded up a Z pattern years ago for this and nothing more was done. I made more of them and sectioned them so one person could lift out sections and move them out of the way.
Between the rails, not seen in the photo, I used steel grating.
This is to improve safety in the shop, as well as appearance when nothing is in there. Looks better to see the boards than the 3 sheets of plywood.
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What? Ya mean no more "bombs detonating" when those plywood sheets hit the floor? Sheeesh!
Seriously.......BRAVO, Mike. That's a fine improvement!
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And no more swimming in the pit!!
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Not only does Mikes work make the pit area safer, we also get to use the space along the east wall. It's been blocked by the plywood sheets for years. Now we can store tools and equipment there or put in some shallow shelves. Either way we'll have more room to work on motive power and rolling stock in the north end of the bay. Thanks Mike!
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I lied. Seen in my photo is the grating. It can be seen just above to running board of the T. Under the car frame.
And yes Steve. No more yard shattering booms. At least not from the plywood.
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Mike working on the pit covers...
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8341/8232728063_eceab1359a_b.jpg)
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Do you have a shot like that in horizontal format?
Thanks!
-John
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Stewart put the finishing touches on it this week in the form of some Safety Yellow paint. Looks like it belongs there now.
(http://i1132.photobucket.com/albums/m573/miketrainnut/WWandF%20Ry/100_4038.jpg)
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I have a dream that the space along the east wall of the shop adjacent to the pit will remain clear of "stuff" so a safe walkway is available at all times. In addition, it will be a handy place to stack the grating and plank covers for the pit as necessary.
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WOW! nice work!
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This was mentioned in the work post but is important to the operation of 3 phase machines and the air compressor.
Brendan donated a Kohler charging unit for the battery on the generator. The unit is wall mounted above the compressor, behind the Bridgeport mill. Plug the charging unit's cord into the quad box each morning that the generator will be run. Leave the unit on while the generator is running and unplug it at the end of the day. This allows the battery to stay in the generator and have a full charge. The Kohler has fuses on the left side of the unit for the secondary/12vdc output. If there's no 12 volts, check the plug and the fuse.
Stewart
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Thank you Brendan!!!
I have several new scars on my head from running into the roof overhanging the generator while I was installing and removing the battery last weekend. I'm sure that a few brain and skin cells will be saved by this.
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Stewart installing the battery charger.
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/image_zpsa5244b55.jpg)
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This is the same charger we have in one of our fire trucks. They are constantly plugged in so this may not hurt on this set up either. If you plug it in just before you want to use the generator, it may not start. It could take several hours to bring a weak battery up to strength enough to start the generator. That doesn't alway start easy, especially when cold.
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This is probably the only 12 Volt knob-and-tube installation anywhere on Earth ;D
-John
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This is probably the only 12 Volt knob-and-tube installation anywhere on Earth ;D
-John
Maybe we can charge admission to the machine shop 8)
BTW - found at least 6 funnels of all sizes. The shelf is well stocked!
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Mike,
Since you have Koehler chargers at your fire station, do you have a manual or paperwork for the unit? I didn't have info last weekend so here's what I did; I took the charger apart, inspected and cleaned it, put a new power cord on. I set the second bus and tested it for over 2 hours with a meter to test the output. The unit has two adjustable secondarys and there are 3 output buses on the terminal strip. The charger is model number 5680, made by Koehler in Marlborough, MA.
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I'll check the truck over tomorrow for one. I don't recall seeing one. It came with a truck we purchased used last fall.
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A little over a year ago, Brendan brought a large patternmakers lathe back to the museum from the barn of someone in the area. He could tell the story much better than I could. Anyway, last May I evaluated the lathe to determine its condition, and how it could best be utilized by the museum. While I found it to be in good shape for not having been run in 50+ years, I was unable to find any sort of makers mark or label that woudl tell me the history of the lathe itself. I was perplexed, but didn't think much about that since. That was, until someone on the Old Woodworking Machines forum lamented "Every Maine shop should have a Fay & Scott lathe." I'd never heard of such a company before, nor could I figure out what that had to do with shops in Maine. So after some brief googling, its obvious that our lathe is a Fay & Scott. So you're thinking, "who cares, Alan?". I know... But here's the kicker, Fay & Scott was founded in 1881, and based in Dexter, Maine. They got their start by making patternmakers lathes, and apparently expanded to other machine tools and agricultural equipment. I have no way of being able to date the lathe, but based on its design and styling, I would be pretty comfortable in saying that it would have been built during the same time that the WW&F was in operation. Brendan could shed more light on it's history in the mid-coast, but it's also probably safe to say that it's never left the state. I was already thrilled to broaden the capabilities of the shop with it's addition. But given it's appropriate age, and geographic significance, I am kind of giddy with how perfect of a fit it is for our museum.
Brendan's pictures from July 2015 Work Planning thread:
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/IMG_0783.jpg)
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/IMG_0786.jpg)
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/IMG_0785.jpg)
More info on Fay & Scott: http://www.lathes.co.uk/fayscott/
I'll apologize for my tool related digression from the railroad talk, but hopefully some folks will get a kick out of this as I did :).
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Alan
Please don't apologise for educating us all about beautiful old machinery of great historical significance. Thank you.
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Some day, we'll have to enlarge our machine shop or build a new one for all of neat, old machines. Perhaps adding a forge for blacksmithing. There may be some value in doing work for other restoration projects.
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From a historical perspective, it might be beneficial to locate and acquire as many "Maine built" machines of various types as practical. I'm sure the original WW&F procured local equipment and tooling whenever possible to keep costs down.
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Nice addition to the museum! If the outboard end of the headstock shaft is threaded (as I suspect it is on a pattern makers lathe) a faceplate can be fabricated for turning larger diameter pieces. While looking at other Fay & Scott lathes over at VintageMachinery.org I see that serial numbers can be found on some of their machines. I’m not sure that it will help us date our lathe but it would be interesting to see if there is in fact a serial number. I have no idea where F&S stamped theirs but other lathe manufacturers often stamped them between the ways on the tailstock end.
The WW&F had a very basic machine shop compared to the Sandy River and other larger railroads. On page 62 of “Narrow Gauge In The Sheepscot Valley” Volume 1 the authors have included a diagram of the WW&F’s car and machine shop. It shows three lathes – a grinding wheel – a shaper – a drill press and some sort of saw – presumably woodworking.
Does anyone know how they determined the layout of the machine shop? Are machine inventories included in any of the ICC reports?
Outfitting a shop with Maine made machines would be tough as the state really didn’t contribute to their development to the extent that Neighboring New Hampshire, Massachusetts & Connecticut did. More Maine made woodworking machinery will be found than metal working.
Made in Maine or not - I do feel these vintage machine help educate people about the greater context of the industrial revolution – how railroads were built and maintained – and the heavy industries they served.
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We had a visitor from N.C. today that toured the shop and complimented us on the pattern makers lathe, saying it was a handy machine.
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I'm thinking perhaps the next construction project should be a woodshop, in a separate building with heat and a nice wood-block floor. It should be about 15 x 30 feet with double doors at each end and nice-sized windows on both sides. I don't think it needs a track inside, but a track adjacent would be nice.
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To make the shop building more functional the museum is putting a concrete floor in the old sections of bays 2 and 3 in the shop building. Alot of work has already gone into cleaning out and moving shelfs, cabinets and benches out of bay 2. Today work started on removing some of he existing gravel floor so the new concrete floor can be poured.
Kubota and tip car at work in bay 2.
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bbarry74011/IMG_0996.jpg)
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bbarry74011/IMG_0998.jpg)
Eric and Steve dumping the tip car over the embankment in the North Yard.
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bbarry74011/IMG_1002.jpg)
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bbarry74011/IMG_1019.jpg)
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There are two strong dudes......
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Wow...wasting no time. Good to see MOW Tip Car 1001 doing its job.
Great. Get out the yellow paint, Mike. ;D
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Thanks for the photos, Brendan.
Jeff S.
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Tip cars can stay black. Easier to hide them..
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So that's how tip cars work !!
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Work continued today.
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bbarry74011/IMG_1045.jpg)
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So, is there a date set for when the concrete will be poured?
Jeff S.
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Wow...wasting no time. Good to see MOW Tip Car 1001 doing its job.
Great. Get out the yellow paint, Mike.
Tip Car 1001 came from the Ramsdell Farm (along with #9 and the other cars.) Therefore, it has been speculated (I don't think proven) that it is also from the original WW&F. Perhaps it was used on the wharf on the coal dock? At any rate, it came to us black, and black it should stay (unless there is evidence of it being a different color on the original WW&F.)
So, is there a date set for when the concrete will be poured?
My understanding is that they wanted to see how the cleanup and digout process went before setting a date. Given the photos of the progress, I would imagine that decision will be made shortly.
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The floor is scheduled to be poured the week of the 17th.
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The concrete floor is on hold for a little while. We found some rot in the mudsills holding up the five posts between bays two and three. The present plan is to replace the five exisiting posts and header with two steel beams and one central post on a new concrete footing. Putting up the steel beams and removing four of the existing posts will create more clear working space between bays two and three.
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That's what I like about this organization. Doing it right ALWAYS trumps getting it done.
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Even though this unexpected development (mentioned above by Brendan) will slow down the concrete floor work, the final result should make working in bays 2 and 3 so much easier. Onward!
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Exisiting building framing between bays 2 and 3. The post with the green dot will remain and the posts with the yellow dots will be removed. The steel ibeams will be placed under the existing wood header along the light gray line.
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bbarry74010/IMG_1059.jpg)
Sketch of the desired changes sent to our civil engineer for review.
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bbarry74010/IMG_6360.jpg)
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Lots of nice HARD work to keep us young and HAPPY!!!!
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That's what I like about Fred, always a positive attitude toward everything. ;D
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What are the estimated costs for this reconstruction?
Jeff S.
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Will the steel beams be made to look like wood beams so as to maintain the look of the original wooden construction?
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Will the steel beams be made to look like wood beams so as to maintain the look of the original wooden construction?
Wood grain contact paper. Nobody will know the difference. ;D
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James...you're a genius!
Looks like hefty, wide flange (16 inch) steel is spec'd. Careful not to wipe out the contact paper budget. ;D
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The problem with that idea is that the glue does not last very long. It will start peeling and look awful. Why not just paint the steel a neutral color and be done with it?
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Just thrpw a couple rivets in the beam and about 4 layers of paint and it would look original.
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Heck, if you're going as far as making rivets why not get structural angle, 2" strip steel and make our own lattice beams. Those would be consistent with the time period. (ok folks just kidding) But seriously, why not just have our crew of master carpenters just miter pine board and box the steel in. One could also run electric down the open channels and have outlets at floor level. Nice and neat and out of sight.
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They now make laminated wood beams, very strong, cheaper?, got to be way easier to hang. Why not use those? Who'll notice?
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The steel beams being installed will match the ones holding up the shop extension on the south side of the building. To my recollection, no one has ever commented on their appearance.
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Work continues on the shop building. We have decided to get a complete concrete footer under the wall between bay 3 and the machine shop. The entire wall sits on a mudsill that will be inaccessible once the concrete floor goes in the shop building. The track was removed from bay 2 today and work started on temporary support posts between bays 2 and 3 so footers can be poured under the posts that will support the new steel ibeams.
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bbarry74010/IMG_1089.jpg)
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bbarry74010/IMG_1094.jpg)
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See what happens when ya start out to scrap a couple pieces of bad wood and reinforce the place?
Impressive.
Same thing when I start working on my 1967 abode. ::)
Really love the pics. Da more da merrier.
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Out of curiosity, since the rails have been removed, how have the concrete ties held up?
Jeff S.
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Replacement of the mud sills is interesting. The Friends of the East Broad Top have been undertaking similar work on the main shops building at Rockhill Furnace. As far as I know, the original mud sills were laid down when the shops were rebuilt following a major fire in the late 1880's. So they were in the ground for well over 100 years. I guess the size of the logs used for the sills, as well as the species, had a lot to do with their longevity. The Friends have also had to cut off the bottom of some of the posts and splice new pieces in, due to rot. I don't know what type of wood they are using for the new mud sills. I think I would have gone with a concrete base for the posts!
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What concrete ties??
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Back in 1993, when bays 2 & 3 were laid out, there were home built concrete ties set every so many feet for the track. I should know, as Bruce Wilson and I set the ties. That was my first visit to the WW&F.
Jeff S.
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I remember from my first visit in 1990 that there were concrete ties in the original section of bay 1 as well.
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Most of them are fine. At least one was damaged during removal.
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Thanks for the update.
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From early afternoon Saturday (July 29th): Cribbing installation is well underway between bays 2 and 3 of the shop building to support the second floor and roof when posts are removed and steel beams with a new post are installed.
(http://i.imgur.com/RcSy3FN.jpg)
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And there's Fred sitting down.
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The BOSS is allowed to sit down..................... ;)
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And there's Fred sitting down.
Now, now, now -- I might have a future post related to that, but that will be another day...
Thanks for verifying others can see the photos I posted besides me!
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I'm impressed by what youze guys are doing with all that cribbing.
As with many projects, the preps are often as much or more work than the task itself.
Hope setting those couple-ton beam segments goes well.
The more pics the merrier. ;)
Doing coming slab work should be a snore. ;D
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Cribbing set up in bay 2 to hold up the second floor of the shop building.
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bbarry74010/IMG_1241.jpg)
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bbarry74010/IMG_1245.jpg)
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And remember, all those are future ties down the mountain! We are creative...
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Thanks for the pictures B. Here's a quick recap of today's work:
* The northern most tie cribbing and support timbers were put in place so there's a complete support system to hold the second floor.
* The temporary hoist has been set at the south end of the original Bay 3. This will be used for lifting the I beam in place.
* End cleats were installed on the south I beam and the beam was moved to it's staging area in Bay 3.
* Excavation for the center support post footers was finished and construction of the concrete forms began.
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No wonder Joe is looking for ties. They are all hidden in the car shop.
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The place looks absolutely bomb-proof. ;D
Shop work, culvert work, switch work, flange work. Amazing.
BTW, what happened to boxcar 67?
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67 is in the car storage building until the shop floor work is complete.
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I absolutely recommend you shop project guys all wear hard hats , having been saved from severe head injury during C&TS Friends mandatory hardhat summer work in Chama.
During a rider boxcar remodel, a metal chair base was carelessly tossed out a window, knocking me down next to the car like a bowling pin. Damage: a hardhat gouge.
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The form for the center support posts has been built and the sand for mixing the concrete will be delivered on Weds. Zack hopes to pour the footer early on Saturday. Today, as a safety measure hooks and ropes were installed across the north bay 2 & 3 doors to keep visitors out of the construction zone when the doors are open.
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Some update pictures from Jason.
Steve removing the remains of one on the mudsills that use to run crosswise across the building. Footers are going to be poured in these locations before the new floor goes in to provide support for the posts in the shop wall. This is the wall between bay 4 and the machine shop.
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bbarry74010/IMG_5515.jpg)
After the mudsill remains are pulled out. The styrofoam under the mudsills is against the machine shop slab.
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bbarry74010/IMG_5518.jpg)
The center and end footers are in for the posts to hold up the steel ibeams.
Center footer
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bbarry74010/IMG_5520.jpg)
End footers
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bbarry74010/IMG_5519.jpg)
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bbarry74010/IMG_5522.jpg)
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We installed one of the center support posts today. It holds no weight because the south post is not yet installed and the staging is still in place. Stone that will be under the track in bay 3 was cut done to the correct grade today and the excess crushed rock put on the Woods Track.
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This week:
* West wall post support pockets were dug out this week. The pockets allow for concrete to be poured under the posts that hold up the west wall of bay 3.
* The south I beam support post was cut, installed and bolted in place.
* Two of the temporary floor support beams have been removed along with their staging. Excess blocking and staging ties were removed from the building.
* The second I beam was brought over on Weds, the mounting holes were drilled and lifting rings installed on Friday. The beam has been moved into the north end of bay 3 to stage it for lifting on Saturday.
Next -
* Install the stand-off tabs under the original wooden beam.
* Set the lifting beams and chain falls for the north I beam. Install guide planks for the lift.
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Start...Seems much easier and faster for you, clearer to me, to show pics of each task, with less need for explanation. ;)
The old 'picture's worth a thousand words' thing.
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Today -
* The second (north) I beam was lifted in place and both support posts installed under it. After some careful lessening of the tension from the temporary cribbing, the staged supports were removed. The work took 8 hours but the full weight of the second floor is now on the new I beam set.
Pending -
* The center support posts need to be bolted together and lags installed in the north post cap.
* A set of tie-in fish plates will be installed between the two I beams.
* The jenga tie stacks can be removed to continue floor work such as removing the last sub-sills and digging out a track trough in bay 2.
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Any chance there will be a photo of the completed work?
Jeff S.
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Jeff, you can not believe the amount of room in there now. Once the Jenga piles are out of the way, I am sure someone will take a picture.
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It's not that there is any more room, it's just that there is more usable space with the support columns missing.
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No, actually more room. The posts and everything attached to them took up quite a bit of room
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A good house-cleaning always gives you more room. Museum folks are pack-rats as we never know when we'll ever need or use a part or piece of machinery again. Occupational hazard................. ;)
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All the Jenga tie stacks were removed from the shop today. Fred hauled the ties over by the run through track. Some of the larger rocks were removed as well. We still need to cut and pull the last sub-sill that's under the old lathe pad in bay 2.
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With the post and beam project completed, does that mean that the concrete floor will be poured soon?
Jeff S.
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Maybe two weeks, there's a few things to be done prior to the pour -
* Pour the concrete support tabs that go under the west wall posts.
* Remove the final sub-sill that's in the old lathe pad.
* Prepare/grade the floor including re-grading the track trench in bay 3 and digging one on bay 2. This provides a thicker floor under the track.
* Set a skirt board along the west wall where the concrete floor height will be higher than the existing sills.
* Set rails (running and mud) in both bays to be ready for the contractor to set his rebar.
We are working today, installing the I beam fish plate, bolting the center posts together and pulling the last concrete ties out of bay 2. More may be done depending on Fred's energy level (or if he wants to watch the eclipse).
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Ok Start,
You stumped me..... Splan mud rails.... are they the rails turned 90 degrees on edge with the head under the running rail on the gauge side? Like the ones inside the gauge in the south side of bay 3?
Bill
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Last ties were removed, about 6. Most of the steel stageing has been returned to the large car barn. Fred's going to help John M on his phone system tomorrow. A opening has been opened into bay one at the North end.
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Ok Start,
You stumped me..... mud rails? Are they the rails turned 90 degrees on edge with the head under the running rail on the gauge side? Like the ones inside the gauge in the south side of bay 3?
Bill
[/quote]
Yes.
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Is there a special problem photographing the praised shop work done so far??! ::)
At least three requests have been made over the last two weeks. :-\
How about showing us??
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Most of the people who have been working in there don't bring anything to take pictures with. If I took a picture I wouldn't know how to post it.
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While I deeply appreciate the efforts of those who do post pictures, I completely understand the lack of photos. When I go to Sheepscot, I always leave my phone in the car for several reasons. I don't want it to get damaged, and I also don't want to ruin the 1920 experience.
I'm sure photos will be coming with time.
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If you think about it, the three people that post the most pictures are Brendan, Mike and Start. I tried to learn how, but you have to go outside the discussion group to a photo-specific website, and then paste in the link on the discussion group.
Perhaps Brendan and Mike can reeducate us so that more of us can do this. I was there late this afternoon (running in to John McNamara) and took a picture of the opened up bay, but I still don't really know how to effectively post it.
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Jason sent me some pictures from today to post. We decided to remove the plywood wall between bays 1 and 2 to have more working room between bays 1 and 2. Bay 1 was the orginal shop building and the plywood being removed is the original outside wall sheathing of bay 1. All the posts that hold up the building will still be in place in that wall. We hope as a future project we can remove the posts between bays 1 and 2 and install the same ibeam setup as we just did between bays 2 and 3. A concrete floor and sills for bay1 are also on the future project list.
Looking south into the building from the bay 3 door.
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bbarry74010/IMG_1674.jpg)
Looking north from bay 3 in the shop extension you can see the first section of the wall between bays 1 and 2 removed.
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bbarry74010/IMG_1675.jpg)
Looking into bay 1 at the first section of wall removed betwwen bays 1 and 2.
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bbarry74010/IMG_1673.jpg)
Looking south into the building from the bay 2 door.
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bbarry74010/IMG_1672.jpg)
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So much for trying to heat bay 1.
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Yep. I was thinking the same thing, Mike.
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Thanks for the images.
I do think Mike has a point regarding bay 1.
Jeff S.
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Jason and Brendan...
Mega-thanks for the comprehensive pics! ;D
The shop does look much bigger, somehow neater, with the old columns gone.
Very nice. Great work, you guys.
Can't wait to see that clean, level floor slab appear in a few days.
That job will be a piece of cake, right?? ;)
BTW, what are those old sections of boxcar sheathing for?
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Sorry I left out Jason as the other major source of pics...the four of them are fantastic in keeping us visually up to date.
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That's the original sheathing of 309. The shadow of the number can be just made out on the in the 4th photo
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I was wondering whatever happened to Lightening. Welcome back!
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But, But, where we will hang everything we don't need and never use but don't want to get rid of? ;)
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Somebody mentioned there's now a storage container beyond the parking lot. ;)
Needs some green paint, when you guys get a chance. ;D
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The first box is nearly full; another one wouldn't hurt. As Mike suggested some time ago, if they were set up parallel with space between, the area could be easily roofed over as parking for the Kubota and the dozer.
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One container is enough. Just need to organize it..
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I'm with Mike on that- one is enough. That part of the campus is startin to look a bit worse for the wear- through no specific action- rather it's just the place where things seem to end up. Unfortunately, it's also the first place visitors see when they get out of their car and the last place they see when they leave.
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I'd rather have all the junk in one big pile than scattered all around the campus.
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That goes along with my posts pushing neatly painted buildings...wood, metal, junk kept in one place, ideally out of sight.
A generally neat campus appearance always appeals to visitors, have never heard complaints about orderliness.
But then, I'm a highly trained neatnik. ;D
Order has a calming effect on me.
Maybe its time for an old-time-looking wood fence/screen on the western edge of the parking lot?
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Today -
* Skirt boards were installed on the west and north walls to provide a stop for the concrete.
* Temporary steps were built for the machine shop access door so be careful going through there. The steps will be rebuilt after the new floor is in.
* Sway braces were installed on the bay 2 - 3 center support post. Final bolting will be done soon.
* The lower 6" of the old east wall sheathing was removed and the sills under cut to allow concrete to flow under for support from the new floor.
* Both bays were cleared of small pieces of wood and debris so it won't be in the concrete.
To do -
* Dig the trough for the bay 2 track, using the laser level for reference and remove any excess material.
* Fix the bay 3 trough.
* Set the bay 2 and 3 rails in place with gauge rods, height spacers and mud rails.
* Build the north doorway forms once the track is in place.
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Ah, the joys of renovation... :-\
Work originally limited to adding a concrete workplace floor at two bays has multiplied, due to discovery and removal of deteriorated, wooden bay wall/column foundations,
now to be replaced with concrete as part of the coming floor pour.
Besides eliminating most of the column line between bays 2 and 3 for more work space, the entire? lower wall half at bay 1 is being removed, its columns to also be reduced eventually.
At any rate, no doubt a much better work venue is coming to finish building 10's new boiler, finish boxcar 67, build a new coach, get started on loco 11 and whatever other rolling stock repairs are needed.
There seems to be a question as to how winter heating could be added to the building.
I doubt Maine winters are tropical. ;)
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Progress:
* The bay 2 and 3 rails are in and welded to the steel ties to hold gauge.
* Wooden flangeway forms are in place on both tracks and additional leveling has been done to the floor sub surface.
Needed:
* A layer of poly sheet and the steel mesh will be added, followed by the electric conduits that will feed the north and west side outlets.
The pour should take place next week as soon as the contractors concrete pump is available.
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The last of the outlet boxes and in floor conduit were installed today to be ready for the floor pour this week.
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The plastic sheeting and re-wire went down today and the concrete pump unit is on hand The floor pour is scheduled for Wednesday morning.
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If the conduit is un-coated you may want to do so.
Paint, or foam pipe insulation, piece of plastic bag.
Don't want have to replace it down the road because of the concrete corrosion.
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Good Catch Carl.
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Conduit looks to be galvanized in the pics on Facebook.
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Wednesday is September 13th. Be careful and good luck. ;D
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Galvanized needs coating more so.
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If the conduit is un-coated you may want to do so.
Paint, or foam pipe insulation, piece of plastic bag.
Don't want have to replace it down the road because of the concrete corrosion.
The sub floor conduit is the correct schedule PVC pipe for electric use. The pipe runs convert to steel at the elbow where it comes up through the concrete. The pipes were set by digging a small trench in the stone/dirt floor and laying in a bed of sand. The pipe was then covered with the sand and smoothed over while the steel elbows and risers were clamped to the wall. After the pipe work was complete, sheets of poly/plastic were placed over the entire stone/dirt floor. The concrete does not contact the PVC pipe, only the steel elbow and riser pipes that feed up to the outlets. The system was designed by WW&F member and master electrician Josh Recave who does most of the museum's electrical work.
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Why the plastic "vapor barrier"? Moisture probs?
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The water table is high, that's why ties rotted that were inside.
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Figured that was the prob.
That's one situation we don't have much here in East Abq at 5500' with <10-inch annual rain, maybe downtown by the mighty 3-foot deep Rio Grande lined with narrow bosques (wooded strips). ;)
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I was concerned with galvanic action but I could not spell it.
Well I can spell IT (eye tee) but galvanic gives me problems. :)
Under the concrete is not a problem, it is at the interface that I have seen
problems. It may have been other factors but rather safe than sorry.
I will not add - keep the concrete out of the sun. ;D
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The new floor is in. Please -
* Stay off of it entirely for 48 hours, don't even walk across it.
* The new floor must remain clean, sealer coating will be applied either Friday or Saturday.
* No rolling stock of any kind in bay 2 & 3 for 30 days.
* No connecting yard tracks to the bay 2 & 3 rails until further notice. Be careful moving things around the north end of the shop so you don't hit the ends of the bay 2 & 3 rails that extend out of the back.
We have a nice new floor that with care and a bit more work to get it ready will give many years of service to the railroad.
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Yea for the new floor and Hooray for everyone who worked so very hard to make this happen.
In addition to making a much improved work area for our restoration projects, this will make it much easier, safer and appealing for our visitors who are touring our projects.
A big Well Done! to all who made this happen.
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Some pictures from this week.
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bbarry74001/IMG_1895.jpg)
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bbarry74001/IMG_1905.jpg)
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bbarry74001/IMG_1917.jpg)
6:00 am today
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bbarry74001/IMG_1920.jpg)
6:30 am today
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bbarry74001/IMG_1928.jpg)
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bbarry74001/IMG_1931.jpg)
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bbarry74001/IMG_1933.jpg)
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bbarry74001/IMG_1939.jpg)
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bbarry74001/IMG_1951.jpg)
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bbarry74001/IMG_1955.jpg)
5:00 pm today.
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bbarry74001/IMG_1967.jpg)
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bbarry74001/IMG_1970.jpg)
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Looks too flat..
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Brendan, great pics of today's pour. When I left late afternoon, they were still smoothing and troweling, but it looks fantastic....
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So which dog was the first to run through the wet concrete?
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One concrete floor.
Questions...
*looks like the vapor barrier, usually the first to be laid, is above? the WWF mesh, which itself needs support to half the depth of the slab for proper reinforcement.
*when will the flangeway blockouts come out? Hope they were oiled.
*slab finish looks rough, will make it harder to keep clean.
*no construction joints? Concrete cracks, wherever, whenever it wants.
Slab sealing is definitely needed.
And of course, treat that slab like it is radioactive, until mid-October!!
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Paul,
Take note at the third and sixth pictures. The wire mesh is clearly above the vapor barrier. Usually rakes are hooked under the wire to pull it up to mid concrete as the pour progresses. Note the guy in the white tee shirt in the sixth picture. He appears to have the rake in his hand.
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So which dog was the first to run through the wet concrete?
I am glad we don't have a shop cat. :P
Jeff S.
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Will there be a ribbon cutting ceremony at FWW? ;D
Jeff S.
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Wow. Great job to everyone involved. Great pictures, Brendan, thank you.
Boxcar 309's original siding is hanging there thinking..."you guys are too much!" :-)
SH
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Gotcha, Bill. Looks like my eyes are not the teen-aged ones I once had.
The floor is unquestionably a huge improvement, along with fewer columns and more access between bays 1 and 2.
Just watch out for the barrier-ignorers. They're always with us ;)
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(http://i1132.photobucket.com/albums/m573/miketrainnut/0916170739_zps3jv4si1y.jpg)
I made Fred pose for the picture. I tried to get Zack too but he darted out of the way. We are very fortunate to have several volunteers as dedicated as Fred. Without them, progress would be much slower.
(http://i1132.photobucket.com/albums/m573/miketrainnut/0916170750_zpsreom8o9r.jpg)
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What difference a week makes! That floor looks terrific.
We are very fortunate to have several volunteers as dedicated as Fred. Without them, progress would be much slower.
Every visit I'm always amazed by what has gotten done since my last visit. I wish I was half as productive as Fred and others.
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Today:
* Zack re-installed the work bench (and vice) along the wall under the stairs. And built a shelf over it for the long wood bits.
* The bottom steps were rebuilt to fit the new floor.
* More things were removed from the old east wall and the south end of bay 3 was cleaned up a bit.
A number of visitors walked through the shop, admiring the new floor. One even noted that we could have a barn dance with all the room.
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Am amazed how much wider, and lighter, the middle bay area looks now, including the bay 1 pass-throughs; floor also looks smoooooother than before.
You guys should get what the Navy awards for outstanding performance, a big Excellence "E" as painted on a deserving ship.
So how big a band is booked in for the Fall Work Week/Shop Building Spruce-up/Washouts Fillup Barn Dance Cotillion? Start's right...that new floor is just itching for a dance mob! ;D
Too bad Guy Lombardo passed.
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Why not run a 2 (or 3) track box rail along the entire length of the wall between bay 2/3 and bay 1 (at least up to the stairs). Pick it up at your local Lowes, Home Depot or Tractor Supply - it is a regularly stocked item.
You could then put sliding doors on the track as movable partitions so you will be able to close the cutouts . This will support Mike's request to be able to isolate Bay 1 so it can be heated- move the doors and Bay 1 can be isolated with the movable partitions.
I do all of this in my cabinetry shop so I can segment off what I want to heat.
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I know every volunteer counts but Fred is the Poster Child.
Thanks to one and all.
Ira
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Has anyone given any thought to Epoxy floor paint for the new section? It makes it so much easier to clean up (especially oil and grease), and with an off-white, grey, or tan color will actually help with the interior lighting and brighten the bay up.
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John. New floor already had two coats. See photo's above. Fred is standing on the coated concrete.
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My understanding is that the two coats is concrete sealer. That is way different than an industrial epoxy floor paint. Please correct me if I'm wrong..........
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sealer
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Yes, expensive epoxy floor paint would be a further improvement, but the multi-coats of sealer would have to be completely acid?removed after the concrete cures, with yet another delay in area use. :P
Think it best to use and enjoy the nice, new deck, maybe wipe thy feet and minimize splats, smears and spills. ;)
Bet the next project will be a concrete floor in bay 1.
Heating...what's the latest?
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I would suggest a couple of free-standing coal stoves with gravity feeds. Relatively cheap, easy to maintain, and if you want to get fancy there are those that have blower options (1000-2000) cfm for larger spaces. Can be found online or a decent selection can be bought through tractor supply (TSC). They have good stuff and are easy to deal with. I use them all the time.
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No heat planned. We have some portable patio heaters that work great for taking the chill off
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B&SR 67 was the first car back in the shop after the tracks were reconnected this weekend.
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bbarry74010/IMG_2224.jpg)
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A perfect picture.
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What happens to the first person that gets the floor greasy or spills oil on it? Smokebox clean-out duty for a week? :o
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Too late, the Model T already christened the floor. Don't know what its punishment will be........ :D
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Too late, the Model T already christened the floor. Don't know what its punishment will be........ :D
A night outside might be a good punishment. ;D
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The floor is sealed, so grease and oil stains should clean up with some kitty litter.
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Or do it like we did when I was in the Motor Pool -
Oil Absorbent and a 2X4 block , round & round.
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WOW!! That sure is an improvement! I always wondered how nobody got hurt working on that ballast. This is great and so much safer! I have two bad knees and always had to be double careful on that old floor.
There is one other bad spot that I discovered a few years ago in going from bay 3 into the machine shop where there is an unexpected double step down. Not sure if it is still there or not! Bui I found it!
I really can't believe how much was accomplished this year. I guess we all have to be thankful for a dedicated and skilled volunteer work crew!
Win Nowell
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There is now a gentle two step drop from the new concrete floor to the machine shop. I was happily surprised, and everyone with bad knees, etc. will really appreciate the upgrade.
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A few aluminum cookie sheets (like Nancy Weeks uses for her lovely desserts) strategically placed beneath known leaky equipment will solve the oil spot problem. I've been in museums that have one under each locomotive side rod bearing to catch drips.
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Galvanized oil drip pans, like a really big cookie sheet, may be a better solution and do not have to be food grade.
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Catch oil in it and I would no longer classify it as food grade ;)
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(http://i1132.photobucket.com/albums/m573/miketrainnut/IMG_6590_zpsjfemy8nj.jpg)
A little organizing always improves the area. The weekday crew came up with this in the machine shop. Sure beats picking up pails looking for the right oil..
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Insulation for the shop arrived today.
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bbarry74012/IMG_8535.jpg)
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bbarry74012/IMG_8525.jpg)
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bbarry74012/IMG_8534.jpg)
Sheetrock for the shop ceiling was also delivered and stored on the Ford AA in the garage.
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bbarry74012/IMG_8518.jpg)
Shiplap for the shop walls was delivered last week.
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bbarry74012/IMG_8519.jpg)
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Wow! That's a lot of insulation. Our local and winter volunteers will not have to run the stove as putting up all that insulation will keep them warm until the task is finished.
The end result will make winter shop work a lot more pleasant.
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The shop must seem quiet with all that sound absorbing material in there
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Huh What? ;D
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Chock full o' Rock Wool.....lotta itchin theyah! ;D
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So, when does insulation work start?
Jeff S.
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I thought that blown in insulation was going to be installed in the shop. Why the change? Cost?
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Yes, cost was the difference. This is less than half the price of the blown-in - of course that comes at the cost of volunteer time...
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Will installation be a weekday project? If so what days are planned as I can sometimes be there on Wednesday.
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Insulation progress pictures from Jason.
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bridge%20move/IMG_4549.jpg)
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bridge%20move/IMG_8673.jpg)
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bridge%20move/IMG_4553.jpg)
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Will installation be a weekday project? If so what days are planned as I can sometimes be there on Wednesday.
Work on the shop should be going on Tuesdays and Wednesdays but check in at the beginning of the week to confirm the plan for the week.
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It looks great. Alas, all that 2x4 cross bracing where all kinds of things were stored, stuck, placed, lost, hidden, etc. Now we can build shelves in the warmth of the new stoves.
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Thanks for those pics . The shop will be soon a nice and warm place to work when the potbelly will be burning. By the way isn't the olive green jacket a M65 by Alfa ?
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Alain,
Knowing some of our volunteers, it may have come from the US Army. You can find a reasonable facsimile at https://www.medalsofamerica.com/m-65-jacket-blank
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Insulation progress pictures from today.
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/monson%203/IMG_8785.jpg)
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/monson%203/IMG_8790.jpg)
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/monson%203/IMG_8805.jpg)
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/monson%203/IMG_8817.jpg)
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/monson%203/IMG_8831.jpg)
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/monson%203/IMG_8835.jpg)
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/monson%203/IMG_8841.jpg)
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/monson%203/IMG_8843.jpg)
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/monson%203/IMG_8828.jpg)
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I hope someone has been documenting all the utilities before they get buried with rock-wool. Nasty when those nails and screws get driven into an electric line. :-[
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Great work guys! Sorry I couldn't be there to help...
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I don't know about you guys, but I feel warmer already.
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All three walls of the shop extension are insulated and the entire ceiling of bay 3 is insulated. The old ceiling portion of bay 2 is insulated and a start has been made on the extension ceiling of bay 2. We started putting interior sheathing up on the bay 3 wall in the extension. The plan is to get the interior wall sheathing completed in the shop extension so shelving and storage can be put up and things organized to make the machine shop functional again. Once everything is off the floor we will go back to working on the ceilings.
Bay 3 ceiling done in the old part of the shop. A flat ceiling had to be framed into the upper portion of the bay to allow for ventilation of the dead space above bay 4.
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/monson%203/IMG_8912aa.jpg)
South and east walls of the shop extension insulated.
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/monson%203/IMG_8915.jpg)
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/monson%203/IMG_8914aa.jpg)
Interior sheathing going up on the west wall of the shop extension.
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/monson%203/IMG_8928.jpg)
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Great work, all! Thanks for the great photos, Brendan.
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Boy, nothing like a few snowy days to make things go fast inside the shop to help keep it warm. Great progress all.
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Good job of work you all did . You are soon going to have the nice and warm place to work you need given the wintry temps in Maine . If only we could do the same in the AMTP Pithiviers workshop and enginehouse. Thanks for the pics Brendan.
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Great job. Could someone refresh my memory, how is the shop heated?
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Could someone refresh my memory, how is the shop heated?
One of the wood stoves can be seen in this photo from earlier in this thread:
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bridge%20move/IMG_8673.jpg)
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You guys are moving right along.
Jeff S.
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There will be a second, identical stove placed near the south end of the shop. It is on-site but not yet set up. The stoves burn wood or coal.
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I'd say burn the wood. We have lots of it and more to take down on the mountain extension. That and the always present blowdowns and storm damage should keep us stocked. I assume we are going to bring loads of wood down to Sheepscot to cut up and split during SWW.
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Unfortunately most of the wood is soft wood and would require constant attention. We already have a supply of anthracite for the stoves. Any hardwood that we can save we will use for firing up the steam engine(s).
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Well I certainly hope it's Pennsylvania anthracite! If needed I'm sure I can work with Wayne and find a pallet of bagged nut coal to come up on the truck for SWW.
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Blaschak Coal Corp., Mahanoy City, Pa. bagged or super sacks
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Machine shop toolboxes have arrived, and Alan had a crew starting to sort and organize, and even put on temporary labels..
(http://i1132.photobucket.com/albums/m573/miketrainnut/0316191351_zpskh8yn0pr.jpg)
(http://i1132.photobucket.com/albums/m573/miketrainnut/0316191350b_zpslrbutrtp.jpg)
(http://i1132.photobucket.com/albums/m573/miketrainnut/0316191350a_zpsptkiforf.jpg)
Jay was also busy putting up more shiplap
(http://i1132.photobucket.com/albums/m573/miketrainnut/0316191350_zpslmfibo5d.jpg)
And here we see Alan inspecting the newly installed crane rails after some adjustment by Kevin
(http://i1132.photobucket.com/albums/m573/miketrainnut/0316191351a_zpsa5jffqgg.jpg)
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How much more wall and ceiling insulation, sheathing, is left to install?
The shop looks better with each photo. Warmer?
Will stove 2 go in before spring weather arrives?
Great work!
BTW, nifty toolboxes. You'll love 'em!
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Paul,
One stove was installed sometime early Decemeber. I saw it when I was there for Victorian Christmas.
Jeff S.
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Re: New Toolboxes....
Thank you, thank you, to the donor of the toolboxes for stepping up. They should make a huge difference in improving the efficiency of the shop.
And thank you to Alan and helpers for sorting and organizing.
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I would strongly suggest to get some closed cell foam sheet and cutout profiles of specific tools as they would be organized in each drawer. We did this in the USAF and it made finding and storing tools amazingly easy. At the end of the day, you can quickly scan and check for missing tools before you lock up.
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All of the original bit of Bay 1 still needs insulation, as well as portions of the east wall of the extension where heavy steel sits near the wall. There are still quite a few insulation bundles around.
Ceiling probably won't happen until later in the year.
Second coal stove may not get installed until later in the year.
Yesterday Fred started the stove up in the morning, but by afternoon it was equally warm inside as out, so we opened up the doors and let the sun in.
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All the wall sheathing in the shop extension was finished today.
The front wall of the shop with the new shelving up.
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bsr%2034/IMG_9107.jpg)
Jay putting up the last board on the east wall.
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bsr%2034/IMG_9112.jpg)
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With all the new sheathing, and organizing of tools, I won't recognize the place.
Jeff S.
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With all the new sheathing, and organizing of tools, I won't recognize the place.
Jeff S.
Recognize the place? All the old places that we use to look to find things have now all moved. I know it is a much better state than before, but the transition will take a little time.
On a positive note, things should now stay in their place so we can get our various projects completed in a more timely fashion. My hat's off to all who have helped to make this all possible.
I am really looking forward to the SWW to see all the accomplishments.
B2
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Any plans to install some or all of the ceiling during SWW, or will all hands be needed for ballasting on the Mountain Extension?
Dave Crow
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The insulation crew finished the east wall of bay 1 today.
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bsr%2034/IMG_9115.jpg)
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bsr%2034/IMG_9122.jpg)
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bsr%2034/IMG_9126.jpg)
Window trim going on the east wall of the shop extension.
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bsr%2034/IMG_9127.jpg)
The last pieces of crane rail being prepped for installation.
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bsr%2034/IMG_9135.jpg)
Removing some of the upper section of the wall between bays 1 and 2.
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bsr%2034/IMG_9118a.jpg)
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bsr%2034/IMG_9124.jpg)
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bsr%2034/IMG_9140.jpg)
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bsr%2034/IMG_9190.jpg)
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bsr%2034/IMG_9193.jpg)
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OK the obvious question...why the wall work?
And the finished Car 34 woodwork looks gorgeous, Zack!
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The third photo shows you why. The big bundles of insulation are blocking floor space. Very hard to walk around the shop. And the walls (plus the ceiling) of bay 1 still need to be insulated.
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Looks to me like those original high wall segments would be blocking Bay 1 ceiling work access over the parked Loco, so down they came.
Whatever makes your choo-choo chuff. ;D
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I see the flatcar is still on blocks. How are the trucks coming along?
Jeff S
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New volunteer Brian Strait was working diligently to prepare the non-brake set of trucks for paint on Saturday, 3/23. When I left him (at 6pm) he was working in a cloud of dust trying to remove 100+ years of grime and rust. I think the goal was to have that truck painted this week.
There was a wheel trade for the truck with brakes that took place on Saturday as well. That truck needs some additional work, then can be scraped, reassembled, and painted.
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Go, Brian!
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Latest I read...per Jason, those trucks are a HOT item, need finishup ASAP! :P
Expect to see 34 outside and rolling sometime next week. ;)
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Is there any budget/priority to finish putting a concrete floor in Bay 1 this year?
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The insulation crew hard at work.
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bsr%2034/IMG_9197.jpg)
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bsr%2034/IMG_9200.jpg)
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bsr%2034/IMG_9218.jpg)
The pile is getting smaller.
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bsr%2034/IMG_9209.jpg)
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bsr%2034/IMG_9213.jpg)
The windows are trimmed out on the east wall of the shop extension.
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bsr%2034/IMG_9224.jpg)
The upper wall removal between bays 1 and is finished.
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bsr%2034/IMG_9221.jpg)
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bsr%2034/IMG_9236.jpg)
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bsr%2034/IMG_9261.jpg)
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bsr%2034/IMG_9263.jpg)
The rest of the crane rail is up. Bay 3 has a dual gauge section at the north end to clear the stove pipe. The north crane bridge will run on the narrow section and be narrower to fit by the stove pipe. Running the crane beams farther apart in the rest of the bay allows for wider crane bridges over the machine shop area.
(http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s5/bbarry74/bsr%2034/IMG_9264.jpg)
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If there is a chance for concrete in the "old" half of Bay 1, perhaps a pit should be included, since Bay 1 is the preferred stall for the operational steam locomotive.
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"Dual-gauge crane rail" <---- Love it!
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Is there any budget/priority to finish putting a concrete floor in Bay 1 this year?
There is no present plan or labor hours available to concrete bay 1 right now. Bay 1 is mostly used for parking the steam engine and really isn't used for maintenance. Putting a concrete floor in would also involve taking out all the posts between bays 1 and 2 and putting steel beams up and a center post to support the second floor . Bay 1 is supported on mudsills on all four sides right now that would need to be removed and replaced with concrete footers.
Remember we have to lengthen and widen the car barn this summer. The car barn is a priority project to get the coaches from Portland undercover and provide us with museum dispaly space. We also have a 30' x 80' pavilion to put up at Alna Center and 2000' of track to put down this year.
OK the obvious question...why the wall work?
And the finished Car 34 woodwork looks gorgeous, Zack!
The bottom of the wall was removed last year when we put the concrete floor in. The upper portion was serving no purpose other than blocking the light in the shop.
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Note my comment about Bay 1 began with the word "If." What you say makes total sense to me under the current circumstances.
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Seems like a lot of insulating has gotten done in the last few weeks. But in reality it has been a very steady progress all winter. Glad to see it done. Way to go guys.
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Thinking longer term, a new and better pit in the roundhouse would be a preferred way to go...
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Seems like a lot of insulating has gotten done in the last few weeks. But in reality it has been a very steady progress all winter. Glad to see it done. Way to go guys.
I was thinking last Saturday when I saw the insulation work completed how many volunteer had that work taken over the winter? Yup -- way to go guys. Terrific job done.
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It was largely Randy and Steve doing the high rise balancing act, and Jay doing the carpentry. Others as well contributed. It has been a steady weekday project for some time now...
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Congrats on completing wall insulation. Sharp-looking sheathing/wall trim is progressing.
And you have your red wallboard lift ready for coming ceiling finish work.
Brighter ceilings will make the shop lighter, help make work easier. 8)
Monumental!
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Well done you guys! I guess it has been more itchy than sexy to insulate such a large shop but all due to you and the potbellies it will become a nice and warm place to work all along winter. Things will come along still faster that way.
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I'm looking forward to seeing Wilmar on the rails at Sheepscot.
Jeff S.
What I m looking forward to seeing...is the new (at least to us!) Lodge and Shipley lathe.
Now all we need is a nice Monarch 10EE lathe for smaller work......
Keith
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There's a bunch of Monarch 10EE for sale on EBay right now. Prices vary widely based on condition and attachments.
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Keith,
I'll have some pictures of the new lathe next week, and more once it comes over to the shop. It's an incredibly nice machine. To give a sense of scale, it's a 40" swing x75" capacity machine, 15' long end-to-end, and about 13,000 lbs. Factory scraping marks are still visible on the cross feed ways.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eW-RpiP0LMHTkvycTrrWiEut6Q58vwaxdOhOvNJTbThGbP0KuRm_R8jghKAGYt8u72nLg6BhOj2nuAJLLNOZGof-Y8gnaI1BPPWLui_ukicHwxbUd9TGYVSHoeZoJSjN0MPodNPe6D4RG3ufmnct3mVQ=w1216-h912-no?authuser=0)
As for 10EE's- I ran a couple while I worked at the machine shop at UT Dallas- they are fantastic machines. But I struggled to justify us bringing in a lathe that has such (relatively) limited z-capacity. They also fetch a premium if they are in good condition, and while their constant torque drive system is one of their selling points, it can be a costly repair in the event of failure. In the end a donor purchased a Monarch 12CK for us which came out of Lie-Nielsen's tool and die shop. It is in fantastic shape and will make for a nice improvement over the current "small lathe" (less wear, cam-lock spindle nose, quick change gearbox, quieter, higher top-end speed) while matching it's capacity.
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Keith,
I'll have some pictures of the new lathe next week, and more once it comes over to the shop. It's an incredibly nice machine. To give a sense of scale, it's a 40" swing x75" capacity machine, 15' long end-to-end, and about 13,000 lbs. Factory scraping marks are still visible on the cross feed ways.
As for 10EE's- I ran a couple while I worked at the machine shop at UT Dallas- they are fantastic machines. But I struggled to justify us bringing in a lathe that has such (relatively) limited z-capacity. They also fetch a premium if they are in good condition, and while their constant torque drive system is one of their selling points, it can be a costly repair in the event of failure. In the end a donor purchased a Monarch 12CK for us which came out of Lie-Nielsen's tool and die shop. It is in fantastic shape and will make for a nice improvement over the current "small lathe" (less wear, cam-lock spindle nose, quick change gearbox, quieter, higher top-end speed) while matching it's capacity.
Alan.....this is the first I’ve heard of the Monarch 12CK coming to the museum. It sounds like a fine machine!
Hopefully the virus situation will improve and I will again be able to visit the railroad in person.
Keith
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Folks,
Regarding the new lathe; there appears to be a second guarded motor up on top. What is the function(s) of this second motor? I assume the regular motor is down in the base.
Ted Miles, WW&F Member
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Ted,
There is no motor in the base. The one you see on top is the main and only drive motor. 25HP, 440/220 3 phase.
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You need a 50HP 3 phase converter from American Rotary in Monrovia, CA. I would get a bigger converter so you can run more than one 3 phase machines at the same time. till later, dwight
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There is a plan to get a rotary phase convertor for the machine shop to replace the diesel generator for 3 phase power. We have determined that the planned electric service cannot support the current required by the convertor so that issue has to be addressed and the campus wiring plan will need to be modified and installed first.
In the meantime a replacement water pump has been purchased for the generator and will be installed soon, time and weather permitting.
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There is a plan to get a rotary phase convertor for the machine shop to replace the diesel generator for 3 phase power. We have determined that the planned electric service cannot support the current required by the convertor so that issue has to be addressed and the campus wiring plan will need to be modified and installed first.
In the meantime a replacement water pump has been purchased for the generator and will be installed soon, time and weather permitting.
Has any thought been given to using a variable frequency drive instead of a rotary converter.? They supply a true three phase output and are the size of a shoe box.
Keith
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More pictures from today. The lathe is up against a door where it's stored, so I couldn't get back far enough to get decent pictures. These two closer up views will have to due for now. Jason and I sprayed rust preventative on the important bits to tide things over before it comes to the shop. To be clear, the ways look "wet" due to the preventative, NOT due to water. Once it gets to the shop we'll mount the Aloris D quick change tool post that had been on the New Haven.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eH9pqBRqKa6LsZhHN91kapQBfloBRcUD9eDt0Cxpvo_WVRYT-_J9uzqKknb7GPbfQmGuy4X40d5Z1_k7a4FTRDX6C8-ZvsbmeAfNr5JgS8tvGsvxtNrS6whh_4D-UKduI5ir65UZCs6WardHL_Sc2Q_A=w1279-h960-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fIzMCpESS3L0Kz7uOQk6bWf81vCwZmr902hLHjRVtWqV3WCsNvp1z7uuT15BEvhq0WPe_TMN31V71ENTDKjn0geg0Ai0m0shLCtam3SBTGizCx5rcFPbmkBDi-XVjN1WuhX-8IyOARBAuu7pO6kCVudQ=w1279-h960-no?authuser=0)
Keith,
Please see my post HERE (http://forum.wwfry.org/index.php/topic,3841.msg48661.html#msg48661) for a full discussion behind us settling on a single plant wide phase converter. But to briefly summarize why VFD's are an impractical solution for us, most of our three phase machines have multiple (3-4) motors apiece, which would each require their own VFD. We would also need very large VFD's ($$$) to run the main motors on the lathe, vertical mill, horizontal mill, and radial drill. The cost of all the necessary VFD's would outsize the cost and complexity of a single large rotary phase converter to supply all of our machines.
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Also older motors are problematic on a vfd. The insulation has too low a tempertaure rating. Motors on vfd 's run hotter. Electrician friend told me this.
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All true, but VFDs have advantages too, like infinitely variable speed control and jog functions. You can tell the motor to turn a quarter turn and stop.
Keith
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We have safety rules for train crews working on the trains. Maybe we should have safety rules on working in the shop to avoid the possibility of fires and possible injuries to others regarding wires and extension cords laying around.
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A brief update on activities over the last months:
Out diesel powered three-phase generator had been down for awhile due to a dead water pump. I'm pleased to say it is now back together and should carry us through while we work on implementing our next iteration of three-phase generation.
The radial arm drill that we purchased in August needed it's column bearings replaced. Disassembly happened last fall, and it has been sitting outside the shop under tarps since then. This was a rather substantial undertaking for the size of the machine and the weight of the subassemblies being handled. Amusingly, the service manual never anticipated this level of repair, so we were "off book". I got the new bearings back in October and since the new year, Carlos and Jerry Stienke and myself have been reassembling the drill in stages as time has permitted. Yesterday marked the final day of major assembly work with the outer column going back on the base riding on the new bearings, and the arm being slid back onto the outer column. I was thrilled to find that once we removed our rigging, the drill head spins on the column like a top!
When the new lathe arrives at Sheepscot, the radial arm drill will go in the building first, and be followed by the lathe. We're excited to see both pieces in the shop soon!
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The generator fix wasn't as simple as it sounds. The engine is a 3 cyl Italian made VM Motori diesel engine. Its model number plate didn't correspond with any known version. We found a British parts supplier for VM diesels and they helped us determine the correct water pump. Then, of course we had to import it from England.
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Harold, that sounds about par for the course. We have quite a few mutts that parts are hard to come by. Sometimes you luck out though..
Glad things are coming together..
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New paint on the Big Radial Arm Drill Alan has been leading the resurection on.
(https://i.postimg.cc/TYVF50ns/0306211524b.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/65JFQg4R/0306211525.jpg)
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Thanks for posting those, Mike!
Nicole and Jay were a huge help with this part of the process over the last two weekends. Here's another picture from after I put the ladder away.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3etACorxElJxX0XExp-NR8FfACPGTMfZ6uJdz9m-s3nNRdoAyr9ygfoflcW9Q7nqXcTEC8mT0XtzFSAdfKIHQXqCMk6NNuYGyfweixd6OLD_5T-IB_7G49BY7WGvry1cAZ3Tb4WMukg1pqzsj6A3hJ9TA=w727-h969-no?authuser=0)
I've also started repowering the Monarch 12CK lathe with a single phase motor and should have that wrapped up in another day or two at the museum.
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Are you going to paint the letters black (or red, or some other color that will stand out)?
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Yep! Second coat next weekend, letters the following.
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I’m guessing that machine will not be really useful for No.60 drills?
As I recall a No. 60 is 0.040” diameter.....
:)
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Coat #2 went on today. One nice looking machine. Many more could use the same treatment..
(https://i.postimg.cc/y6mD8Lkf/0313211816.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/kGvGYg0r/0313211817.jpg)
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Who's doing the painting?
Jeff S.
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From another thread:
-The radial arm drill has been brought inside the shop thanks to Ken Boudin’s telehandler, work by Jerry and Carlos Steinke, and been repainted by Jay Wiley and Nicole Orminski.
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Also on the north end of Bay 1, a loft is being built for an air compressor and air dryer. As of yesterday the loft framing looks to be done, and the flooring nearly done. Not sure how the compressor will get up there, but I'm sure Brendan has a plan.
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Air compressor loft construction.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/s5/bbarry74/IMG_3319.JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/bbarry74/a/58e384d0-fdec-4da1-9e1e-c14e3edadb0c/p/6dd83a05-d9b6-41bc-8bd4-fe9527619635)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/s5/bbarry74/IMG_3322.JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/bbarry74/a/58e384d0-fdec-4da1-9e1e-c14e3edadb0c/p/1dae6e9e-265e-491f-9e67-2f201bfc5254)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/s5/bbarry74/IMG_3327.JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/bbarry74/a/58e384d0-fdec-4da1-9e1e-c14e3edadb0c/p/dd6336a9-24e2-4315-9726-beefcfd67f3f)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/s5/bbarry74/IMG_3349.JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/bbarry74/a/58e384d0-fdec-4da1-9e1e-c14e3edadb0c/p/6c567ea0-19bf-4849-b3fd-d04e0458c199)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/s5/bbarry74/IMG_3352.JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/bbarry74/a/58e384d0-fdec-4da1-9e1e-c14e3edadb0c/p/872fd44e-64f0-4373-ad3d-ae7bb26f6615)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/s5/bbarry74/IMG_3354.JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/bbarry74/a/58e384d0-fdec-4da1-9e1e-c14e3edadb0c/p/3260af59-6b44-4746-ae5a-dc84782dd811)
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Alan had to put in a drill bit and play. Notice the bit next to his shoulder, and he is between the bit and I. Bit was not turning
(https://i.postimg.cc/kMWs6FrY/0327211227.jpg)
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Folks,
Are you going to bolt the Radial Drill Press down through the floor? Some shops have had them turn over. I would not want to hear of that happening; you might scratch up all that new paint job!
Ted Miles, WW&F Member
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regarding Lodge and Shipley lathe: what is its age? where was its origin?
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Has the problem with the rotary phase converter for the shop been solved? Do we have 3 phase power in the shop?
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They are still using the generator. Phase converter is still planmed, but can't come online until the power goes into the building so there is still some time.
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regarding Lodge and Shipley lathe: what is its age? where was its origin?
Does anyone have this information for Kevin? Alan perhaps?
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Air compressor loft construction.
If you can mount it on a rubber pad, then between that and all the insulation surrounding it, it should be pretty quiet. Every 90 degree turn you can force sound to go around diminishes it by half.
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The storage building for the shop arrived last Thursday.
At the shed company before delivery.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/s5/bbarry74/IMG_4242.JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/bbarry74/a/58e384d0-fdec-4da1-9e1e-c14e3edadb0c/p/973afd7f-dfe3-44da-9dfd-4f8fcb92d51c)
Placed next to the shop.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/s5/bbarry74/IMG_4287.JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/bbarry74/a/58e384d0-fdec-4da1-9e1e-c14e3edadb0c/p/5d22dd64-cda3-410f-80c0-7f1b90d3be0c)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/s5/bbarry74/IMG_4240.JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/bbarry74/a/58e384d0-fdec-4da1-9e1e-c14e3edadb0c/p/527dfea2-9228-44f5-ba4f-e4764c5cccd0)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/s5/bbarry74/IMG_4239.JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/bbarry74/a/58e384d0-fdec-4da1-9e1e-c14e3edadb0c/p/4187e1b0-67d8-4e6f-a52f-fddcaeb69b2a)
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Looks like there's plenty of room to store parts for #11.
Jeff S.
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Dean Copeland donated a Northfield no. 2 planer to the museum recently. We built a shed for the planer to live in outside so long timbers can be easily planed. The smaller Delta planer in the woodshop has had to be brought outside on occasion to plane long pieces of wood.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/s5/bbarry74/IMG_5805.JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://photobucket.com/u/bbarry74/a/58e384d0-fdec-4da1-9e1e-c14e3edadb0c/p/edd332df-3c49-440c-9d0e-f44841c3f3f0)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/s5/bbarry74/IMG_5806.JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://photobucket.com/u/bbarry74/a/58e384d0-fdec-4da1-9e1e-c14e3edadb0c/p/95c50164-ac6d-4b4d-9a12-f2933c1b20f2)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/s5/bbarry74/IMG_5823.JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://photobucket.com/u/bbarry74/a/58e384d0-fdec-4da1-9e1e-c14e3edadb0c/p/3eab3a76-da64-467e-972a-7b64a2de0368)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/s5/bbarry74/IMG_5825.JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://photobucket.com/u/bbarry74/a/58e384d0-fdec-4da1-9e1e-c14e3edadb0c/p/ee909197-962c-4218-822e-7dbe129459e9)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/s5/bbarry74/IMG_5820.JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://photobucket.com/u/bbarry74/a/58e384d0-fdec-4da1-9e1e-c14e3edadb0c/p/1e58035e-91e0-4398-a91a-fdfd3aaee3ac)
Ron Ginger arranged the donation of a new vertical mill for the shop.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/s5/bbarry74/IMG_5848.JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://photobucket.com/u/bbarry74/a/58e384d0-fdec-4da1-9e1e-c14e3edadb0c/p/e057caf4-78b2-4f23-bdd4-c2ec3bf290aa)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/s5/bbarry74/IMG_5849.JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://photobucket.com/u/bbarry74/a/58e384d0-fdec-4da1-9e1e-c14e3edadb0c/p/6db48656-126f-45b3-90c7-473cb75fddd7)
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No DRO??
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DRO was very old and nonfunctional. Plan is to acquire a newer, more standard model.
Fear not! At least no too much…
Jason
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My apologies if I confused anyone. We are referring to a Digital Read Out, or an addition to the milling machine that electronically measures and reports the exact position of the table in a digital format. This enables accuracy and efficiency that is just not possible with the dials on the leadscrews of the table and knee and compensates for backlash and wear automatically.
Replacing the old one sounds like it will actually result in a better setup. From my very limited experience so far, the new ones are very useful, intuitive, easy to install, and not that expensive.
Thanks to Ron for setting this up and to Jonathan and Brendan for moving it. Not a trivial task.